The Anthology of Beams Plus Patchwork Balmacaan Coats
The ultimate fall blanket.
In Random Observations #10 two weeks ago, I rambled about getting a voluminous raincoat. But with temperatures dropping, it’s about time for its woolen counterparts.
In terms of style, one of the most approachable silhouettes is the balmacaan coat. Originating from the Scottish Highlands, it was traditionally executed in hearty tweeds to tackle the harsh weather conditions. Thus, an unstructured, raglan-sleeved silhouette with a flat, fly-front closure designed for the freedom of movement. No wonder the style was adopted by American collegiates in the mid-20th century for its practical nonchalance.
Tweed, the original fabric used for balmacaans, is by nature thick and rich in character. Even in tonal yarns, it captures attention with its patterns and flecks. But there is a way to make a tweed balmacaan coat even more visually interesting. And that is by executing one in patchwork tweed.
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As with all the other reinterpretations of Ivy Style, Beams Plus wasn’t the first to execute a coat in patchwork tweed. The original American clothiers, including the Andover Shop and Chipp, were making patchwork tweed sport coats as early as the 1940s. But none of the contemporary brands are as committed to this unique style as the Japanese ametora (which stands for “American traditional“) purveyor Beams Plus.
As far as I know, the brand released its first edition of a patchwork tweed balmacaan coat in 2014. Since then, Beams Plus has been revisiting the style almost every fall/winter season. A decade later, it feels only right to look back at all these beautiful pieces.
Fall/Winter 2014 Frisco Ivy
This is the earliest version of the coat that I found. And one of my favorites as well. Besides autumnal shades, it features original Harris Tweed fabrics. The big deal about Harris Tweed is that it’s the only fabric in the world, protected by the UK Parliament Act. Similarly to San Marzano DOP tomatoes in Italy or Champagne in France, the material ought to comply with a number of strict rules to deserve its name, including being handwoven in a weaver’s home in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland from 100% pure new wool.
A used coat is currently available on Grailed for $700.
Fall/Winter 2015 Plus Spec
In 2015, Beams Plus released its most famous edition of a patchwork balmacaan coat — in black and grey Harris Tweed fabrics of different patterns. This version was popularized by Bruce Pask, men’s fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman and Neiman Marcus. In fact, Pask fell so in love with the coat that — not without his buying power — he convinced Beams Plus to reissue it several years later. Over the last few seasons, it has been released to more stores, including No Man Walks Alone and Canoe Club (priced at $1.172).
Fall/Winter 2018 All You Need Is Ivy
While Beams Plus released balmacaans in beautiful Harris Tweed fabrics in 2016 and 2017, they were not patchworked. The bold style returned in 2018 but with a different flavor. Although the coat resembled its predecessors, it was actually executed in jacquard fabrics. Unlike the real patchwork that requires sewing together pieces of different materials, the jacquard used in 2018 imitated this with a woven pattern.
A used coat is currently available on eBay for $320.
Fall/Winter 2019 All You Need Is Ivy
Curiously, in 2019, the fall/winter collection received the same name as the year before. And again, instead of a real patchwork, Beams Plus opted for proprietary jacquards in grey and brown.
A used coat is currently available on Depop for $300.
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Fall/Winter 2020 Swingman
As the name of this collection suggests, in 2020, Beams Plus swung quite a bit. While the brand brought back the full roaster of classic tweeds, for the first time they executed a balmacaan in a corduroy fabric. Although the material was jacquard again, I personally loved the slightly longer and fuller fit compared to previous years.
Fall/Winter 2021
The 2021 collection came with no name. Maybe because its version of a patchwork balmacaan spoke for itself. Real patchwork, 28 different fabrics, no less. The longest and most voluminous silhouette of all time, and thus, my absolute favorite.
Fall/Winter 2024
Maybe the 2021 version was actually too much because, in the following two seasons, Beams Plus stuck to its proven black and grey Harris Tweed balmacaan from 2015. But this current season, the brand plucked up the courage and introduced a completely new silhouette — a black and grey duffle coat. It’s not exactly patchwork but it’s constructed with panels of different, yet tonal herringbone fabrics. Who knows, perhaps it may start a completely separate story that we will cover in another decade.
