Random Observations #008
An alternative to canvas sneakers, a new book on Ivy style, and my take on Take Ivy.
There are so many things I wish I could write about one day. In the Random Observations series, I attempt to put together my random thoughts and observations on clothing and related subjects in a shorter, more approachable format. This is one way for me to capture thoughts before they sink into oblivion. If you find any of the subjects helpful or questionable, do not hesitate to share your feedback in the comments below the article — I’d be happy to expand.
In the eighth episode of Random Observations, I explore an alternative to white canvas sneakers, recommend a book on Ivy style, and recreate a simple outfit from Take Ivy.
Let’s get it!
White Sneaker Mocs
I have been considering white sneaker mocs for years. In theory, they sound like a long-lasting alternative to canvas plimsolls. I don’t want to retire my 5-year-old Converse Jack Purcell, but I can’t ignore the fact I’ll have to sooner rather than later. Like many white canvas sneakers before them. What if there are other options that may last longer?
Sneaker mocs are a different beast from canvas plimsolls, of course. It’s moccasin uppers put on a sole of boat shoes. Essentially, top-siders with more eyelets. Which doesn’t make them plimsolls or CVOs, popularized by the likes of James Dean and JFK in the 1950s. Yet, sneaker mocs seem to have the same kind of slouchiness to them as they break and may technically work a lot like canvas sneakers in an outfit.
I might have discovered sneaker mocs while browsing NeedSupply or Hickoree’s over ten years ago (unfortunately, both stores closed a while back). They were from Yuketen. The brand has discontinued the silhouette since then, although it sometimes reintroduces it on more aggressive thick soles.
Another version of sneaker mocs comes from the canonical French footwear brand Paraboot. It has fewer eyelets and thus appears more gramparents-y. Recently, the Danish brand Studio Nicholson has collaborated with Paraboot to bring two versions of the Malibu model, including the white one, which I find identical to the general release (available at Peggs & son and Drake’s). Arpenteur has collaborated on the silhouette too, but they made it more outdoorsy by using a ripple sole.
The sneaker moc silhouette is debatable, especially in comparison to classic canvas plimsolls. How do you feel about it? Personally, I would love to try on the Paraboot Malibu before purchase. And if Yuketen will ever bring back their version, I might as well pull the trigger. What other options of sneaker mocs are out there?
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Miles, Chet, Ralph, and Charlie: An oral history of The Andover Shop
I recently finished the book that I recommended in the mystery links in one of the previous issues of Random Observations. I wanted to get a paper version but the shipping was prohibitively expensive so I read it on Kindle.
The book tells the story of one the originators of Ivy League style — the Andover Shop and its founder Charlie Davis, through the voices of his close friends, clients, and admirers. Basically, it’s a bunch of great Americans of the 20th century, including Miles Davis, Bruce Boyer, Alan Flusser, George Frazier, Richard Press, and the younger generation, including Jack Carlson and Jason Jules, remembering stories about the best times of their life.
Besides lots of amazing stories from the shop itself, the book finally made the whole connection between Ivy style and jazz clear to me. When looking for mid-century Ivy-style inspiration, you will inevitably find an abundance of photographs of handsome jazz musicians and beat writers excelling in the look without actually being related — or actually being opposite — to the Ivy League universities. There is a man behind this connection, and his name is Charlie Davis, the founder of the Andover shop.
Enlightening, amusing, and easy to read. I highly recommend it to all of you Ivy-style enthusiasts out there!
Recreating Take Ivy
While we are on this very niche topic of books on Ivy style, I want to remember another legendary one — Take Ivy, a 1965 collection of photographs documenting the style of Ivy League students. The unlikely story of how Take Ivy came to life in the first place is very well described by W. David Marx in his book Ametora: How Japan Saved American Style, another must-read for those interested in style (I even compare it to Harry Potter for clothes horses). Republished in 2010 in the USA, Take Ivy initiated the current wave of interest in the Ivy style that has been growing ever since.
Fewer people know that Take Ivy the photo book was supposed to be just a by-product of Take Ivy the movie:
Anyway, Take Ivy features a brilliant collection of images that serve as inspiration for brands today and prove the fact that much of the way we dress today was invented 70 years ago. Which is mad.
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That’s why recreating the outfits from the book is not a big deal; most of them are now considered basic. Yet, there is something timeless about them that is harder to nail. I realized I have almost identical items to one of the outfits and thought it might be fun to put photographs side by side:
Except for the fact that I wear Converse Jack Purcell instead of CVO sneakers, the outfits are almost identical. My shirt is even from the Japanese brand Kamakura which recreates mid-century OCBD shirts under its Vintage Ivy label. Yet, something is missing in my take on Take Ivy. Maybe it’s the mirror selfie, maybe it’s the drape of the shirt. But something is not quite there. Something was better 70 years ago than it is now.
Mystery Links
That’s a wrap for the eighth issue of Random Observations! Let me know how you feel about it in the comments section on the blog and what you would like me to cover next time. Seriously, any feedback helps!
Just finished Take Ivy and Black Ivy, reading Ametora right now, but wasn’t familiar with Miles, Chet, Ralph & Charlie. Thanks for the tip!