Random Observations #005
New jeans, new bag, new fragrance.
There are so many things I wish I could write about one day. In the Random Observations series, I attempt to put together my random thoughts and observations on clothing and related subjects in a shorter, more approachable format. This is one way for me to capture thoughts before they sink into oblivion. If you find any of the subjects helpful or questionable, do not hesitate to share your feedback in the comments below the article — I’d be happy to expand.
In the fifth episode of Random Observations, I talk about my thorny path to a new pair of jeans, a new version of the côte&ciel Isar backpack, and a new old fragrance of mine.
Let’s get it!
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New Denim: 3sixteen RS-100x Jeans
If you have been following this newsletter, you might already know that I have three pairs of TCB 50’s Regular jeans in different sizes (31, 32, and 34). This fact alone should be enough for me to say that I found my ideal pair of jeans. But as with most things in life, it’s a never-ending quest.
One thing that bothers me about the silhouette is that, due to my height (190 cm), even the size 34 looks slim on me. Over time, all three pairs shrank or stretched to pretty much the same width in the waist. Fortunately, size 34 is still wider below the knee, compared to sizes 31 and 32. But I would love my jeans to fit a bit more relaxed in the top block too. I even considered buying another pair in size 36, but its hem is only 0.5 cm wider than size 34.
Having three pairs in rotation, I haven’t been on the urgent lookout for another one. But I have still considered other options. My current favorite is Superstitch. I have been following Arthur’s work since before he ventured into making his own jeans. He started by sourcing and restoring the original Union Special 43200G sewing machine and mastering the art of chain stitching to achieve the coveted vintage roping effect on hems. On my trip to Paris in 2019, I brought my second pair of TCB 50’s Regular jeans to his workshop in the basement of the now-closed Holiday Boileau store. Now, I dream of going to Arthur’s fully-fledged Superstitch store to bring my current pairs for blowouts repair and trying-on jeans from his line. I don’t want to spoil the potential in-person experience by shopping online.
3sixteen is another company that I have been following for quite some time. The most enticing part about the brand is its proprietary 100x denim produced by Kuroki Mills in Okayama, Japan. Proprietary means that the fabric was developed according to 3sixteen specifications and has remained exclusive to the brand. When it was first introduced back in 2008, it was a huge thing. Due to low volumes, most niche jeans brands in the USA couldn’t afford to develop their own fabrics and had to stick to what was readily available on the market. More often than not, it was denim from Cone, the manufacturer that supplied Levi’s for the most of 20th century. Given the menswear obsession with American workwear at the time, there was very little distinction among jeans brands.
15 years later, practically any imaginable Japanese denim brand with its incredible custom fabrics is just a few clicks away. 3sixteen’s proprietary 100x denim turned from a real differentiator to more of a beautiful story. As you might have noticed, I love beautiful stories. While I don’t expect 100x denim to be superior to others, I can appreciate the effort that the brand put into creating something different.
Of course, a beautiful story alone isn’t enough. I almost pulled the trigger when 3sixteen launched its CT fit (Classic Tapered) back in 2015. But my rationalization for a straight fit that isn’t slim won over my curiosity for the fabric. When the brand introduced the new RS fit (Relaxed Straight) late last year, I was ready to take action. I also featured it behind the Mystery Links in my previous Random Observations😏
Our RS cut is our widest fit developed with more room in the thigh, a higher rise, and a wider leg opening than our other offerings. The cut is generous and comfortable, perfect with a break or a clean cuff.
3sixteen describes its 100x denim as sanforized, meaning that the fabric has gone through the industrial shrinking process beforehand so that jeans don’t shrink when washed. But learning from my experience with other brands’ jeans made from sanforized denim (Rogue Territory, Left Field, and Levi’s Vintage Clothing), I still opted for a bigger size to compensate for potential shrinking. So much so that I can only wear the pair belted, with annoying stacks of fabric at the waist. Otherwise, I love the full leg much more than on my TCB. I bet that the jeans will still shrink over time, and the waist will fit me just right while legs will remain relaxed. I will keep you updated.
Small ask: If you find this article exciting or helpful, I’d be incredibly grateful if you helped others discover it. Sharing it with friends, commenting on the blog, or simply hitting ❤️ are all a huge help. Thank you!
New Backpack: Côte&Ciel Isar M
I have already reviewed this very backpack. TL;DR I absolutely love the giant expandable compartment and the versatile minimalist aesthetics, but the shoulder straps have totally screwed over time. I hadn’t realized how bad they were until my wife said it was too sad of a picture and gave me a new bag for my birthday.
Shoulder straps are my only complaint about Isar M. Yet, Côte&Ciel have updated the model significantly over the last six years. So much so that Isar from 2024 feels strikingly different from its 2018 ancestor.
Most importantly, the brand fixed the shoulder strap issues. Now, the backpack is equipped with proper ergonomic straps whose foam padding seems to be firmly secured in place by cross-stitching in multiple points. What’s more, Côte&Ciel added a chest strap that is adjustable in both width and height position. This simplest of a feature can significantly ease the load on the shoulders. Unfortunately, there is still no waist belt that could help distribute the weight from the back to the hips. Lastly, the shoulder straps were upgraded with an additional top adjustment to regulate how snugly the bag leans to your shoulders.
Now, to the bad news. The new Isar M feels smaller in terms of volume. The absolute highlight of my old Isar M is its enormous expandable compartment. When not in use, I could simply tighten it with the two thick adjustment cords, and it drapes nicely. But when shopping for groceries or traveling without checked-in luggage, its duffle-like construction proved invaluable.
At first glance, the updated Isar M is the same size as the old one and features the very same expandable compartment. Maybe it’s because the outside is now made from a more robust, two-layered material. Maybe it’s due to the zipper now being dipped by a full 5 cm into the material to appear hidden. I haven’t quite figured it out yet, but for some reason, it feels smaller.
So yeah, mixed fillings so far. I am so glad that Côte&Ciel added decent shoulder straps to accommodate the potential load. However, the reduced volume hinders the whole idea of a daypack that easily transforms into a travel pack.
There are lots of smaller changes to the Isar M as well, so I might make a thorough review of the new backpack one day. Feel free to submit questions you want me to cover in the comments section of this article. Meanwhile, check out the review of the old Isar M backpack.
Small ask: If you find this article exciting or helpful, I’d be incredibly grateful if you helped others discover it. Sharing it with friends, commenting on the blog, or simply hitting ❤️ are all a huge help. Thank you!
New Old Fragrance: Lacoste Style In Play
For all you noses out there this is neither a review nor a recommendation. It’s, well, a random observation. The thing with Lacoste Style In Play is that it is a fragrance I had been wearing when I and my wife started dating. I have changed quite a few perfumes since then but she still recalls the scent from time to time.
It started like one of those romantic inside jokes, but over time it grew into a challenge of actually finding the fragrance. And Lacoste isn’t that big of a fragrance brand, you know. So whenever we travel, we check airport duty-free stores for that one shelf with entry-level fashion brands’ fragrances. It has almost become a family sport to us.
On a recent trip, it took forever to claim the flight’s luggage. It was a really small airport with just two baggage carousels. 45 minutes in, we had already checked socials, done some reading, and discussed everyone else waiting. Then I noticed there was a tiny store that I wouldn’t ever go to otherwise. And just like that, there it was, a fragrance we had been searching for years. As if by magic, baggage appeared just as we were leaving the store with the coveted scent.
My wife says it sounds just like back in the day. So there might be something good about having to wait for luggage after all.
PS I also found the old Jil Sander Sun perfume with its iconic bottle and typeface in the store. It sounded like a generic sunscreen so I didn’t buy it. But now, as the summer approaches, I kinda want to go back and get it.
Mystery Links
That’s all for the fifth issue of Random Observations! Let me know how you feel about it in the comments section on the blog and what you would like me to cover next time. Seriously, any feedback helps!
great choice 🫶