A Quest For A Perfect Sneaker
Dissertation on what makes a sneaker timeless and my Top-5 bets for a winner.
It has already been a month since the release of Mephisto x P.Johnson collaborative sneakers. It's funny you won’t find any information about them on major fashion platforms like Highsnobiety and Hypebeast.
The reason probably lies in the fact that P.Johnson originally started with made-to-measure Italian suits and thus is not on the radar for those types of media. Meanwhile, the folks at P.Johnson consider their creation to be the perfect walking shoe. Quite a statement, right?
Definition of a perfect sneaker
Honestly, I tend to agree. For a very long time, I have been on the lookout for a perfect pair of sneakers. Here I should clarify that I draw the line between sneakers and plimsolls with the latter mostly being constructed with a single material upper and a flat rubber outsole. I consider silhouettes like Jack Purcell (court shoe), Chuck Taylor (early basketball shoe), or CVO (deck shoe) to be plimsolls and all the later designs like the 70s running shoes and beyond being sneakers. I admit this might be an offensively incorrect definition of plimsolls and sneakers, but I couldn't think of a better way to distinguish much simpler silhouettes from the first half of the 20th century from the bulkier designs that came later.
Now, that we are on the same wavelength with definitions, I would like to bring another argument to the table. I strive for timeless pieces and therefore prefer wearing plimsolls over sneakers. By the way, this post is turning into a dissertation paper at this point.
Plimsolls are timeless by design. Again, a single material upper (usually canvas) and flat rubber outsole — there is just nothing calling for attention in there. Which makes it easier to match plimsolls to any outfit as long as it’s warm and dry outside. It’s about the person wearing the shoes, not vice versa.
For a pair of sneakers to be perfect, they should feature the same characteristics of timelessness. They should feel at home with the full specter of formality in clothing, from sweatsuits to evening dresses. It's not that I'm advocating wearing suits with sneakers here, but there should be an option if we are talking about the perfect sneaker. And such a sneaker should be applicable in less tolerable weather because otherwise I already have plimsolls.
I’m not sure something as inherently gimmicky as sneakers can be timeless, but that’s the challenging hunt I chose for myself.
My sneakers that are not perfect (sorry)
With that being said, I am guilty of owning quite a few pairs of sneakers. Reebok Classic Leather, New Balance 327, Reebok Club C, and a couple more in the queue that I haven’t been able to wear yet. There is nothing particularly wrong with these sneakers, but I wouldn’t dare to call them timeless.
I bought a pair of Reebok Classic Leather for the sole reason of them being made of Horween natural vegetable-tanned leather. I was obsessed with experiencing the process of natural leather evolution with wear and time.
I bought a pair of New Balance 327 for the joyful combination of retro-like running design and bold mismatched colorway (I’m a huge fan of mismatched collaborations done by Engineered Garments). The model has clearly sold out since then, but the reason I bought them is still relevant.
Reebok Club C? Well, this is actually a pretty firm candidate for the role of timeless sneaker. But to be completely honest with you, I purchased them not because of that, but for the hype created around them by then Reebok designer Leo Gamboa. I will tell you the whole story one day (if you are into reading a random stranger's deep feelings about sneakers), but the pair turned out to be quite a staple white sneaker for me.
My version of Club C is made in collaboration with Eames Office and features almost all-white leather uppers with some hints of light grey here and there. A simple, ubiquitous colorway is a mandatory requirement for a timeless sneaker. The stitched cup sole construction supposedly guarantees the longevity of the sneaker unless you wear the soles through. Lastly, even though the Club C’s uppers feature numerous elements and stitchings — that’s what generally makes sneakers look gimmicky — altogether the design is unfussy and plain. Almost like plimsolls, Club C supports the outfit instead of drawing attention to itself.
My Top-5 bets for a perfect timeless sneaker
Why not stick to Reebok Club C? Well, because there is always space for improvement, right? Or, in case of a quest for the perfect sneaker, ways to keep the obsession flourishing. Better materials, rarer releases, smoother aesthetics — it’s an endless void indeed. I list several of my preferences below and even announce my best bet. Please, feel free to jump into the conversations with your own subjective opinions.
I’ll start with an easy one — the New Balance 99x series. You know something is timeless when it touched the feet of Steve Jobs. In classic grey, that’s very important. Made in the UK 991 would do as well. If I was to choose one, I’d go for 990v1 because I’m prone to all things retro and because I still can’t believe the brand got away with feeding the crowds with ugly dad shoes. But that’s just me.
I really like the idea of suede and mesh sneakers in a subtle grey colorway. I just try to avoid wearing logos if possible. Well, I don’t want someone to pay attention just because I wear the same thing all the cool kids do. You might be surprised, but there is an option for people like me — Victory Sportswear.
Originally named Hersey back in 1982, the company specialized in custom Made in USA sneakers for runners. Their DPS shoe was even awarded «The best running shoe of the year» by Runner’s World magazine in 1985. Fast forward 30 years, a new owner introduced Victory Sportswear brand that continued to make the original Hersey models by hand in America. If you’re still not sold by now, Victory Sportswear made a collaboration sneaker for JJJJound in 2017.
For the very same reasons that I like Victory Sportswear, I also admire Asahi Trainer. Just a trusty suede and mesh combination in grey. No logos, no excessive overlayed panels. This time, made in Japan. I distinguish Asahi Trainer from Victory Sportswear because of the subtle difference in the silhouette. The former sneaker reminds me of the slicker running shoes from the 1970s. Asahi is my personal favorite, but you can find similar aesthetic options from brands like Novesta, ZDA (a.k.a. Reproduction of Found a.k.a. Eyefound), and Spalwart. Coincidentally or not, all three sell a model called «Marathon» produced in the former Soviet factories in Slovakia.
Now, that we have enough suede and mesh options in grey, it’s time to talk about the white ones. Steve Jobs might have made grey dad sneakers look classy, but nothing beats white in terms of versatility.
The first thing that comes to mind when thinking about white sneakers made outside the usual suspects (the major sportswear giants) is the German Army Trainer, otherwise known as GAT. For some reason, I consider it to be a sneaker, while Common Projects Achilles is still closer to plimsolls for me. Even though the idea of buying the original leather and suede made in Germany issue for as low as $50 (check BW Shop or eBay) sounds very attractive, numerous owners complain about uncomfortably hard soles. Luckily, there are plenty more luxurious options.
Again, you can check Novesta for an entry-level version or go harder with Reproduction of Found and Brother Bridge. The most luxurious version is, of course, Martin Margiela. Even though the silhouette doesn’t imply branding, Margiela is what people in the know will think about your GAT, no matter the actual manufacturer. If you want to prove them wrong, be sure to do your homework on the Soviet shoe factories in Slovakia.
One last option of GAT I can’t skip is Mizuno for Blankof. That’s obviously far from the timeless sneaker, but I’m in love with the absurdity of it.
And the winner is…
Wait. You’re still here? I appreciate it, really. Believe it or not, I started writing this post just to announce how much I like the new sneaker introduced by P.Johnson and Mephisto. But the writing definitely took its own turns and lead us to something else. Hopefully, we are coming to a close by now.
If it was only about being made of better materials under humane conditions by people who know their craft you’d have a variety of options still. I really like Filling Pieces Ace Spin or VOR 5A or Visvim Roland or Walsh Fierce+. See? I surely missed some.
But if you are really looking for a timeless sneaker, you probably want it to be a special one. That’s exactly what I see in P.Johnson x Mephisto Rally King.
I mean, Mephisto have been French champs of orthopedic footwear for half a century now. That’s a pretty solid proxy for the sneakers to be comfortable. Pebbled, yet soft goat leather sounds both luxurious and durable. Again, I’m a huge fan of the stitched cup sole construction since I’ve seen way too many soles that fall off the upper in the toe and heel areas. But the icing on the cake is the silhouette itself.
Mephisto has two classic silhouettes in its permanent collection — the Match and the Rainbow. While the latter is too orthopedic-ish for my taste, the former is often successfully used in collaborations with progressive brands. The most notable examples are a collaboration with Concepts (which is a nod to the mythical Apple sneaker from the 90s that is now sold at auctions for as much as $50 000) and a joint project with Patta.
While still pretty rare, both collaborations feature the existing Match model. What P.Johnson did is they went the extra mile to develop a brand new silhouette. Meaning that by buying a pair, you lower the already slim chances of ever meeting the same sneaker in the room to an all-time low.
Comfortable, luxurious, made in France, rare — I truly believe Mephisto x P.Johnson Rally King might be the perfect timeless sneaker. The cost of privilege that is owning a pair? A whopping $460 (that’s the cost of building a custom silhouette, I suppose). Shout-out and respect to all the lavish owners though.
The restack is bringing me here in 2025. I know some finance, C Suite types who swear by Mephisto loafers - makes sense they’d have a great trainer. My recent discovery and purchase I’m loving is Crown Northampton’s Adnit. Made to order, but has a perfect GAT/Plimsoll vibe. Had to look for a year+ to replace my Paul Smith Rabbit trainers (his line veered hard into balenciaga looking stuff).
This is an awesome article. Truly enjoyed it.
I've been intending to get Filling Pieces Ace Spin for some time now, so was very glad to see them mentioned in your article. Also I believe Onitsuka Tigers deserve some space here as well :)