Amateur Guide To Classic Shoe Care
Shown on my decade-old pair of Florsheim Veblen longwings.
I'll admit it right off the bat, I'm no expert. But I've cleaned this particular pair over 20 times. I even attended a shoe-shining masterclass once. Still, before every clean, I check the Hanger Project guides to jog my memory.
Yet, I'm really happy with how my Florsheim Veblen shoes turned out a decade later. Of course, I wore them a lot less often than my other shoes — classic footwear is not particularly in-trend these days. But the pair still has seen a lot, from museums and theaters to pouring rains and questionable bodegas where people don't watch their step.
If your shoes look really bad, I'd recommend seeing a professional. But for everything else, here’s what I do.
Step 1: Remove dirt and dust
First, you need to get rid of all the dirt and dust from the surface. I use a cloth or a large brush for this.
Step 2: Remove deep-seated dirt and old layers of cream and wax
Over time, leather can absorb all sorts of stuff like chemicals, grease stains, and alcohol spills, drying it out and leaving marks. Plus, leftover cream and wax from previous treatments can prevent new products from being absorbed. To remove all that, once or twice a year I use a cloth and Saphir Reno'Mat. They say it's quite strong, so it shouldn't be used too often. If you are unsure about it, check Kirby Allison’s detailed guide.
Step 3: Nourish the leather
For years, I've been using Saphir Creme de Luxe. I apply a small amount to a small brush and work it into the leather in circular motions for about 5–7 minutes per shoe. I let it sit for 5–10 minutes and then buff it off with a large, long-haired brush. For better protection and shine, I repeat this process 3–4 times.
Recently, I added Saphir Creme 1925 from their premium Médaille d’Or collection. It does the same thing as the regular Creme de Luxe, but it's supposedly more premium. Honestly, I haven't noticed a difference.
In most cases, I stop at this step. But this time, I decided to give the toes an additional shine.
Step 4: Glacage
Glacage is polishing the leather to a mirror finish. Basically, you apply lots of thin layers of wax and buff them until a reflection appears. It's not great for the leather because the wax clogs the pores. But it looks cool.
I only got into the whole mirror shine thing once at a masterclass. But from time to time, I try to do something with Saphir Pate de Luxe. I take a little wax with my finger and apply it in circular motions. Then I sprinkle it lightly with water and buff it with a stocking or an old t-shirt. If you repeat this long enough, you can get a mirror finish. Be sure not to mirror shine the creases as the treatment will crack, leaving unappealing white marks.
And that's it! I want to mention separately that all these products last a long time. I've only been caring for my shoes 1–4 times a year, and none of the products have ever run out. Not to bother about color matching, all of my products come in neutral. Even so, my grey shoes have turned brown over the years. As I often write in this newsletter, quality things become better with age.
