Vacations On Budapest 🇭🇺
Travel notes, film photos, and a map of 13 places I enjoyed.
Full disclaimer
This is not an “ultimate” guide of any kind. During my four trips to Budapest, I have merely scratched the surface of what the city has to offer. But every time I’m there, I find myself returning to the same spots — they’re that good. Rest assured, there is still so much more to discover in this incredible, beautiful city.
The purpose of this guide is to set you up for a good start. New destinations can feel overwhelming at first. You might feel weary after your flight, need to figure out how to get from the airport, and check in to accommodations that may not live up to expectations. There can be just too much happening at once.
In that regard, I hope this guide will assist you with a few proven spots to eat, shop, and explore. Consider it a helpful starting point, akin to advice from a trusted friend. Once your first steps are covered, you can venture out and build on it.
If you find this guide inspiring, I would greatly appreciate it if you could share it with your friends, colleagues, subreddits, and followers. I did my part — but I need your help to let others discover it, too.
The guide
All of the places mentioned here are marked on a Google map, along with descriptions from this guide. Feel free to use it on your phone and share it with friends.
Delis
The term deli or delicatessen covers a range of concepts, which can vary widely from one country to another. The two delis I stumbled upon in Budapest were more like cozy little libraries, where the floor-to-ceiling bookshelves were stocked with some of the world’s most delicious foods. Seating was limited, and the snacks were trivial. But with the right ingredients, the taste was as good as you can get.
The first time I visited Budapest, it was early morning. With time to kill before check-in, we headed straight to Sarki Fűszeres. Nestled on the corner of a triangular building, the deli exudes Parisian charm: wooden frames with curved glass, an Art Deco-style burgundy sign, and a few folded chairs outside (though it was too chilly in February to sit outdoors). Inside, a wooden counter runs along the windows, lined with high stools. Shelves were filled with bottles, jars, and boxes, while the counter showcased freshly baked pastries, cheeses, figs, olives, and more.
For breakfast, we had scrambled eggs with Parma ham, a meat and cheese platter, baguette with tapenade, freshly squeezed orange juice, espresso, and a bottle of white wine. It was love at first sight. The next morning, I found myself coming back to start off my birthday celebration. Sarki Fűszeres instantly became my favorite place, and I have returned on every trip since.
This deli was so packed with delights (not people, there is no space for them) that the owner had to rearrange the merchandise to get us seated. There wasn’t a menu, so we simply pointed at the items that caught our eye. My sandwich — ham, hard cheese, sun-dried tomatoes, and arugula — turned out to be one of the best I have ever had. A local APA from Rothbeer complemented it perfectly.
That said, two years later, the same owner behind the counter sold us 0.35 liters of pálinka for 45 euros. But by the time we finished the bottle, we were already thanking him for the story that came with it.
Spiral stairwells
I first discovered Budapest’s spiral staircases on Instagram. Intrigued, I dove deeper into sites like ArchDaily and Architectural Digest, eventually finding Hungarian photographer Bálint Alovits’s Time Machine project. His work captures the surreal beauty of Budapest’s Bauhaus and Art Deco spiral staircases.
During my trip, I visited three stairwells. From the outside, the buildings seemed unassuming — boxy, gray rectangles. Inside, however, they revealed captivating beauty. Curiously, in the first half of the 20th century, it must have been the opposite: Art Deco interiors may have felt more familiar, even modest, while sleek, minimalist exteriors appeared futuristic and alien.
I found this staircase by accident on my first day in Budapest. As we arrived at Sarki Fűszeres, I glimpsed a stunning staircase through the glass door of the same building. Unfortunately, the door was locked. But as luck would have it, a resident arrived just as we were leaving. I dropped my suitcase and slipped in behind him.
Inside, the seven-story building features a perfect circular staircase. The original triangular-shaped elevator still works, and you need to manually close its door just like in the old days.
The second staircase happened to be right across the street. I’d bookmarked this location during trip planning but didn’t realize how close it was until we arrived. On the ground floor was the historic Dunapark café, established in 1938 and revived in 2006. We didn’t dine there, opting instead for another treat at Sarki Fűszeres, but I did sneak into the lobby of the building to see the staircase.
The stairs were lined with blue linoleum, and one wall had floor-to-ceiling windows flooding the space with light. Rounded corners were a recurring design element, visible in door frames, handrails, and lamps — contrasting the building’s rigid exterior.
This staircase was the most impressive of the three. I had to hold the door ajar with my fingers, waiting for a couple who had just entered the lobby to take the elevator. The elevator, or rather the two elevators, turned out to be the main feature of this staircase.
This was the first time I had ever seen cylindrical elevators with fully glassed shafts in an old residential building. Their curved doors slide open, and inside, there’s a single metal one-legged stool. The stairs between the two elevators are illuminated by natural light streaming in from both sides. It felt like stepping into an architect’s dream of the future, imagined from the past.
More food and drinks
You already know I love authentic Neapolitan pizza. It’s a bit unfair, but we discovered Igen by accident on our way to another pizza place, Vegazzi. Since our first visit, Igen has moved to a larger space across the Danube, but the dough remains as good as ever.
Despite its name, Boutiq’Bar is the quintessential cocktail bar. Countless bottles line the shelves, featuring familiar names and intriguing unknowns. Popcorn tailored to pair with your drink. Half a lychees filled with flaming liquids. Marshmallows, craft paper, dried citrus slices — every whim fulfilled for a surprisingly modest tab.
I’m not sure how cocktail bar culture has evolved over the last decade, but when I’m in the mood for a cocktail, I gravitate toward places like Boutiq’Bar. Their execution of classic drinks is every bit as impressive as their creative mixes. A Sazerac or Boulevardier? They handle requests like these without missing a beat.
If Boutiq’Bar is fully booked, try your luck at the nearby Tuk Tuk Bar.
Stores
Nanushka is a renowned Hungarian fashion brand with stores in London, New York, and Shanghai. The company prides itself on responsible production, including tracing its supply chain and developing an exclusive vegan leather material, OKOBOR. Besides women's and men's collections, the Budapest flagship also features a selection of magazines and a cafe. Definitely worth a visit.
Vass is a classic Goodyear-welted shoe manufacturer established in 1978. They are best known for their distinct shortwing brogues, called the Budapest. Personally, I’m a fan of their Norweger silhouette, which makes for excellent rubber-soled derbies—a unique alternative to the more typical English, American, and French shoe brands.
Views
I haven’t read a single guidebook about Budapest, but I’m certain Széchenyi Thermal Bath is ranked among the top three attractions in every one of them. Still, it’s a must-see—not just for the photos of the blue-water pool framed by steam and palace-like architecture, although that alone would be worth it.
The bath is a sprawling complex with three outdoor and fifteen indoor pools, along with countless saunas, steam rooms, and showers. The main attraction lies in the open-air courtyard: a swimming pool and two pools filled with thermal water.
I’m not a big fan of water activities, but you simply have to experience the sheer delight of walking 15 meters in flip-flops and a towel on a winter day before plunging into 38°C thermals. The water hits the perfect balance: warm enough to relax your entire body but never too hot. The moment you climb out, the chill sets in instantly. The moment you step back in, you’ll never want to leave.
On a Friday afternoon, the crowd was sizeable—there weren’t enough spots on the steps along the pool’s edges for everyone. But people come and go, exploring the swirling steam clouds, standing under back-massaging water jets, or snapping photos of the chess players in the pool. It’s all so fascinating that you lose track of time, suddenly realizing you’ve spent hours soaking.
Before exploring the rest of the complex, you can refuel with sandwiches, beer, or sparkling wine. Inside, you’ll find pools of various sizes and temperatures, connected by hammams, steam rooms, and saunas. For an additional fee, you can book a massage and experience the full joy spa lovers always rave about.
Thank you for reading till the end! If you find this guide inspiring, I would greatly appreciate it if you could share it with your friends, colleagues, subreddits, and followers. I did my part — but I need your help to let others discover it, too.
And if you've already been to Budapest and have additional recommendations, please feel free to share them in the comments section below this post.
How are they about gay people there? I’m of Hungarian descent and want to visit but with an uber conservative/autocrat regime in charge I’m not so sure.