T-Shirt Series: Arpenteur Pontus
A thorough review of the French-made heavyweight, yet breathable t-shirt.
In case you have already read my review of the JJJJound Standard Issue t-shirt, All Blues Co. Pocket Tee, or paa Pocket Tee, feel free to skip the Introduction and Review Criteria sections and proceed straight to the review itself below.
Throughout much of my adult life, I have been an avid wearer of shirts. By adult life, I mean the phase when I started paying an unhealthy amount of attention to the clothing I wear. No, I'm not referring to formal shirts worn with suits (thank goodness!). I'm talking about OCBD (a shirt made of Oxford cloth with a button-down collar) inspired by the Ivy style. Why settle for a t-shirt when an OCBD can serve the same functions while presenting a more sophisticated appearance?
That's why I only recently started embracing t-shirts. I still like to believe that I wear OCBDs more often, but honestly, that's not entirely true.
Since I have accumulated quite a few t-shirts, I thought it would be worthwhile to conduct formal reviews of them. The goal is to identify what I like and dislike about t-shirts in general, and hopefully assist you in making better decisions for your future purchases as well.
Hopefully, I will stay committed, and these reviews will eventually become part of a comprehensive t-shirt series. Time will tell.
Small ask: If you find this article exciting or helpful, I’d be incredibly grateful if you helped others discover it. Sharing/restacking or just hitting ❤️ are all a huge help. Thank you!
Review criteria
The inspiration for these reviews comes from Heddels' Great White T-Shirt Review, conducted by David Shuck. He thoroughly reviewed 18 white t-shirts available for under $100. I consider this to be the best resource for making an informed decision when purchasing such a simple item as a basic t-shirt. In fact, I was inspired to buy two different t-shirts based on Heddels' review. Hopefully, they will make an appearance in my series one day too.
I want to emphasize that I am not attempting to duplicate what David Shuck has already accomplished at Heddels. Instead, I aim to offer a more personal and subjective perspective on the matter. With that being said, I will still include objective parameters such as item measurements and fabric composition. Please, do not hesitate to ask for more details in the comments section below the post if you feel like something’s missing.
To make the reviews more applicable, I will categorize each of my t-shirts into one of the following four categories:
Merch: These t-shirts were not specifically designed as merchandise. But they turned out to hold more symbolic value for me rather than practical. Typically, these are lower-quality t-shirts that I would not recommend purchasing.
Basics: These are reliable everyday staples. They are well-made enough for everyday use, and there is nothing inherently wrong with them. Usually, you don't need to look beyond this category.
Heavy: Some t-shirts are just built to be sturdier. They might not necessarily need to be, but they are. Some people might even consider them to be overkill.
Special: Certain t-shirts are celebrated for their form, not function. I perceive them more like art. Sometimes they might be even impractical, but there is something about their fabric, cut, or fit that makes them stand out. They are beautiful.
IMPORTANT Price is not a determining factor in my evaluations. The most expensive t-shirt could be of the lowest quality, while an unassuming one might turn out to be heavyweight. Ultimately, this review focuses on value rather than price.
Arpenteur Pontus t-shirt
Specifications
Year purchased: 2022
Fabric: 100% cotton
Made in: France
Construction: Overlock side seams
Size: XL
Post-wash measurements:
Pit-to-pit: 59 cm (23.2 in)
Shoulder width: 53 cm (20.9 in)
Sleeve length: 25 cm (9.8 in)
Body length: 76,5 cm (30.1 in)
Fits: True-to-size
Price: €69 (purchased on sale)
Category: Heavy (might fall in the Special category as well)
About The Brand
Arpenteur is a rare example of a low-key menswear brand that emphasizes the product over marketing. Still, the company managed to create this allure of mystery detective, thanks to ongoing collaboration with the French illustrator Régric who works in Ligne Claire style of drawing most commonly associated with The Adventures of Tintin. Check out the Art section of Arpenteur’s website to get a taste of the brand’s aesthetics.
I think I first discovered Arpenteur back in 2012 at Hickoree’s, a now-closed fantastic menswear store out of Brooklyn. But I haven’t tried any of the brand’s offerings until recent years. The company produces all of its clothing in France which is reflected by the higher prices. But at least, in the case of Arpenteur, those prices justify quality, not marketing.
Fabric
Oh, what a fabric that is. Dry but not stiff; heavy, yet breathable. Arpenteur partnered with a century-old French factory to relaunch the production of the knitted Rachel mesh on vintage machines. The fabric used to be the gold standard for the French Navy striped shirts. It’s a heavy combed cotton fabric knitted in a pattern far more complex than a regular jersey, resulting in substantial weight, breathability, and pronounced yet delicate texture.
Check out this short feature from the factory:
The fabric is significantly less stretchy than in most of my other t-shirts. It has almost no horizontal stretch and moderate vertical stretch.
Due to the combed cotton, the fabric features small yet noticeable pellets throughout. Lest you worry they give more of an effect of neppy denim than of cheap polyester.
Construction and details
Unlike t-shirts from my previous reviews, the Pontus tee from Arpenteur has a very tidy construction. The overlock stitching on the collar and sides is surprisingly clean. You would hardly find any stray fibers.
Interestingly, the sleeves and bottom of the tee are finished with a rolled hem instead of the ubiquitous cover hem. While such a hem doesn’t roll that much, it indeed creates an effect of visual thickness at the edges.
Arpenteur went for a narrower collar rib for a more vintage feel than the sportier wide ribs. The collar itself has just the right width, neither snug nor broad. You should be careful when putting the t-shirt on and off, as the rib has almost no stretch.
There is an additional label woven into the left side seam, providing care instructions and fabric and country of origin information.
Fit
The t-shirt is tagged with size X-large, and the measurements correspond to it accurately. The fit is a bit different from a regular tee though. It features slightly dropped shoulders and sleeves deliberately longer by 4–5 cm. I could easily fit in size Large, but I intentionally went for an X-large for a moderately oversized fit.
Verdict
In terms of fabric, the Pontus t-shirt by Arpenteur definitely falls into the heavy category (see category descriptions in the Review criteria section of this post). But the meticulously executed details like rolled hems and clean overlock stitching, together with relaxed proportions, make this tee special to me. While there is nothing shiny about the Pontus, I consider it to be the central piece of my outfit when I wear it.
It is a very expensive t-shirt at a full price of around €120. Plus, it seems like Arpenteur releases it only in summer collections. But if I’d found one discount, I would go for it again without thinking twice.
What do you think about the Pontus tee by Arpenteur? Do you have any t-shirts that successfully escape the preconception of being a basic item and justify expensive prices?
If you have any questions or feel that something is missing, please don't hesitate to ask in the comments section below. I'm here to help! 🙌
I would greatly appreciate it if you could hit a ❤️ and restack the article here on Substack or share it on your social media to help others discover it too.
Lastly, in case you missed them, check out my reviews of the JJJJound Standard Issue t-shirt, paa Pocket Tee, and All Blues Co. Pocket Tee.